Chemical Peels and Exfoliation
You are an aesthetician in a dermatology clinic in Abu Dhabi, supervised by a consultant dermatologist. A 34-year-old woman with Fitzpatrick type IV skin and melasma is having her second glycolic acid 35 percent peel, prescribed by the dermatologist. After 2 minutes she rates the burning at 8 out of 10 and you see patchy white frosting on the left cheek. She now mentions she used tretinoin last night and waxed her upper lip yesterday. What do you do?
What the panel is testing: Whether you end an over-penetrating peel at once, escalate to the physician and plan aftercare that limits pigment change in skin of colour.
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Knowledge: Glycolic acid depth depends on concentration, pH, contact time and the skin barrier, not only on the percentage. Recent tretinoin and waxing disrupt the stratum corneum, so this peel is penetrating deeper and faster than planned. Frosting is not an expected end point with glycolic acid as it can be with TCA; it signals epidermal injury. In type IV skin the main risk is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can outlast the melasma she came to treat. Blistering, infection and herpes simplex reactivation are other risks. The checklist on the day should screen for retinoids, recent hair removal, sun exposure and isotretinoin.
Management: I would stop the peel and neutralise the whole treated area, not only the frosted patch, then flush with cool water. I would apply cool compresses and stay with her. I would ask the supervising dermatologist to see her before she leaves, as the doctor may prescribe a topical steroid, antiviral or barrier repair plan. I would apply only a bland emollient and a mineral sunscreen. Written aftercare: no tretinoin, scrubs or waxing until the doctor allows, no picking, strict sun protection. With consent I would photograph the area and book review in 48 to 72 hours, sooner if blisters, pus or spreading redness appear. I would not cover it with heavy makeup or promise clear skin for her wedding on Friday.
Ethics and communication: She deserves an honest explanation, including that our screening should have caught the tretinoin and waxing. I would inform the dermatologist and complete an incident report without blaming her. Prescription advice is the doctor's role. I would record product, concentration, contact time, findings and actions.
Likely panel follow-up questions
- Why does frosting worry you more with glycolic acid than with a TCA peel?
- How does ending a glycolic peel differ from ending a salicylic acid peel?
- She has a history of cold sores. What changes for future peels?
- Two weeks later she has dark patches where the frosting was. What do you advise?
- Which parts of this case are outside your scope?
Pitfalls in this case
- Continuing the peel, or neutralising only the frosted patch
- Not screening for retinoids, waxing and sun exposure on the day
- Sending her home without the supervising physician seeing her
- Applying further actives, scrubs or heavy makeup to injured skin
- Promising that she will be clear for the wedding
Reference: Khunger N, IADVL Task Force, Standard guidelines of care for chemical peels (Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol, 2008); Tosti A, Grimes PE, De Padova MP, Color Atlas of Chemical Peels (2nd ed, 2012)